The Lake District — Volcanoes, Lakes & Adventure — Full Guide (Chile)

Overview

The Lake District — Chile's 'green' south — is a region of volcanoes reflected in glacier-fed lakes, German-heritage towns with timber houses, and temperate rainforest where araucaria trees grow for centuries. The two anchors are Pucón, the adventure capital under Volcán Villarrica, and Puerto Varas, the pretty lakeside town on Lago Llanquihue with Osorno volcano in the background.

Give it four to five days: two for Pucón (volcano plus one more adventure), one for the lakes loop, and one for Puerto Varas and its day trips. It is also the natural stepping stone to Chiloé and the Carretera Austral.

Volcán Villarrica — the big one

Villarrica is one of the world's few volcanoes with a permanent lava lake, and its cone — a perfect 2,847 m pyramid — dominates the whole region. The climb is a full-day guided ascent: ice axe and crampons for the final snowy slopes, and a reward of views over half a dozen other volcanoes and the lakes below. The crater's glow at the top is one of Chile's great experiences.

The climb runs December–March only (weather permitting) and must be done with a licensed guide — every agency in Pucón offers it. Alternative summits for the short on time: Volcán Osorno above Puerto Varas and the Quetrupillán across the lake.

Pucón's other adventures

Pucón is not a one-trick town. Its menu of day trips includes:

• Huerquehue National Park — araucaria forests and emerald lakes; the San Sebastián trail is one of the most beautiful day hikes in Chile.
• Hot springs — Termas Geometricas (steaming pools in a wooden canyon), Huife and Los Pozones, all 30–60 minutes from town.
• White-water rafting — class III–IV on the Trancura river, one of South America's most reliable rafting rivers.
• El Cañi sanctuary — a steep private-reserve hike to a 360° viewpoint over the volcanoes.
• Ojos del Caburgua waterfalls — a short forest walk to two huge falls.

Puerto Varas & the Llanquihue loop

Puerto Varas is the Lake District's elegant side: rose bushes, timber mansions and the postcard view of Osorno volcano across the water. The classic drive is the 186 km loop around Lago Llanquihue through Puerto Octay and Frutillar — the latter worth a stop for its German kuchen (cake) and its lakeside theatre.

From Puerto Varas you can also climb or ski Osorno, visit the Petrohué falls and Todos los Santos lake (the start of the old 'crossing of the lakes' route to Bariloche in Argentina), and take the short drive to Puerto Montt for the ferry to Chiloé or the start of the Carretera Austral.

Practical tips

• Fly into Puerto Montt (El Tepual) and bus 20 minutes to Puerto Varas; Pucón is 3 hours further by bus.
• Summer weather turns fast in the mountains: start hikes at dawn and re-check conditions before setting out.
• Book the Villarrica climb a day or two ahead in high season — agencies run daily but sell out.
• The Argentine border crossing at Mamuil Malal (near Pucón) to San Martín de los Andes is a beautiful 4WD-style pass, open in summer.
• Araucaria trees are protected — do not climb, carve or pick them.
• Kuchen, craft beer and smoked trout: the Lake District is Chile's foodiest region — eat your way through it.